In my last post I posted about the cute campground with the weird dude in Waitomo. Except all that happened in Te Kuiti. It is not far from Waitomo, and I had I not looked at a map I would have been none the wiser. But since, I strive for journalistic perfection I felt I needed to correct. So basically anything else about New Zealand could also be false.
From looking at maps, and recollecting, we did a few things on the North Island. Apparently they were not worth photographing. So fast forward to the South Island. April and I flew from some small town on a puddle jumper, then eventually caught a flight from Wellington to Christchurch. After we got our car, we headed south to the Moeraki Boulders. They we a pretty cool bunch of perfectly round boulders just laying on a beach. Kind of like a giant Toodles left his marbles laying about.
After cruising south we came upon a castle in which we were spending the night. As usual, everyone was very nice and we had a pleasant stay and a nice look around the place. Larnach Castle was built in 1871 and has a splendid spot in a highland overlooking the Otago Peninsula. Everything about this place was beautiful. The view, the furnishings, my traveling companion, everything.
From Larnach and the Dunedin area, we headed towards Mount Cook. I found Dunedin to be very compelling as it is the center of Scottish culture in New Zealand. I was able to find a sweet hat with my family pattern and even bought a plaque of my family’s clan, which ironically is Gunn.
Mount Cook is the tallest mountain in New Zealand. It is part of a mountain chain called the Southern Alps. We had planned on tent camping in the plains underneath the hulking mass of the mountain. But when we got to the check in at the lodge, they advised us that it was going to be very cold and we would be idiots to camp. Not wanting to look like idiots, but feeling like maybe we should camps as we come from ‘Merica, we discussed and then went with a lodge room that we could not afford. The view was spectacular and we went off for a great hike, found dinner at a local dive and had a warm nights sleep. The next day, we used our dollar to NZ dollar advantage well by booking a ski plane trip that lands on a glacier. It was really quite the experience. I did get a little motion sick on the way down as it was quite a bumpy ride.
After some more exploring, we headed south to start the longest chapter of our trip. We intended to hike the world-famous Milford Track. But before we went on our hike, we had a day to kill so while I wandered around shops, April jumped off a mountain and went hang gliding. The things she is willing to do never cease to amaze me. She has been from the depths of the sea, through jungles, over volcanoes and to the top of 14,000 foot mountains and glaciers.
This hike starts at a lake, goes up a river valley, over McKinnon Pass and down another river valley to the namesake sound. This was one of those one in a lifetime hikes that you book months in advance and is just amazing mile by mile.
The hike is fairly tough, but includes 3 huts with cooking areas, flush toilets and bunk rooms. You still carry all your bedding, food and equipment, but at least you don’t have to sleep outside or carry fuel and extra water. Every part of the hike was scenic and you are almost overwhelmed by the beauty. It is apparently dangerous and many people come unprepared. Someone was airlifted out after a bad fall and a woman who started when we did was helped off the hike as she was woefully unprepared for the trip. One of my favorite memories was making a snack of crumpets in the warm hut at the top of McKinnon Pass. It was sleeting outside and just plain unpleasant. I think we may have had a spot of tea as well.
After the conclusion of the hike, we stayed a night on board a small ship in the sound. It was yet another breathtaking experience. All of our clothes were dirty and I ate dinner that night in a jacket with no shirt on underneath. Dinner was interesting. We were seated with a young couple from NZ and the guy was very talky. At one point he asked us if we thought all Kiwis were just a bunch of sheep-lovers. April informed him that we did not think of them much at all. The next morning we woke to a view of the many waterfalls and two seals playing right outside our cabin window. The day did end in disappointment as the flight over the mountains we had planned was cancelled and we had to take a bus. It was the only low point of the whole 4 days. After cleaning up and repacking in Queenstown we headed up the coast to the famous glacier hikes. But those stories will have to wait for the next post. Safe travels.
-John
I Want to See it All! 